Need help and advice

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Dana Jean

Dirty Pirate Hooker, The Return
Moderator
Apr 11, 2006
53,634
236,697
The High Seas
Do any of you sew clothing? When I was in Home Ec, I would make lovely things, but they would never fit my body properly.

I just bought this pattern:

b6018-b.jpg



I love the retro. My problem: My measurements are very very....very different than what they give on back for each size. I'm big in some places and smaller in others. How do I make this dress fit me? Any easy tips would be greatly appreciated. I'm working alone so don't have any extra sets of hands .
 

GNTLGNT

The idiot is IN
Jun 15, 2007
87,651
358,754
62
Cambridge, Ohio
Do any of you sew clothing? When I was in Home Ec, I would make lovely things, but they would never fit my body properly.

I just bought this pattern:

b6018-b.jpg



I love the retro. My problem: My measurements are very very....very different than what they give on back for each size. I'm big in some places and smaller in others. How do I make this dress fit me? Any easy tips would be greatly appreciated. I'm working alone so don't have any extra sets of hands .
...well, no extra hands would mean two less holes right?...so there's that...
 

Lily Sawyer

B-ReadAndWed
Jun 27, 2009
6,625
15,016
South Carolina
If you have time, do a test run with the pattern pieces and cheapcheapcheap cotton something. You can afford to screw that up first before you do the real McCoy.

Choose the size that you think will fit you best. Mark where on the sizing (bust, waist, hips) you think you'll need to either take it in or allow for more.
Work in half-inches, because that's approx. how wide you want a seam to be on either side of the machine stitch.
So....allow however many half-inches you think you'll need extra with the pieces that correspond to the (bust, waist, hip) pattern pieces and cut the pattern accordingly.
Do the same for where you think you'll need to take it in, but don't get too freaked by that - taking in a garment is easier than letting it out.
If possible, cut out your pattern pieces on a large flat surface, like a dining-room table, and then transfer them to a floor in a low-traffic room, like a guest bedroom. Arrange your pattern pieces on the floor into the whole garment and check again.

Gee, I hope all that made sense.
 

Dana Jean

Dirty Pirate Hooker, The Return
Moderator
Apr 11, 2006
53,634
236,697
The High Seas
If you have time, do a test run with the pattern pieces and cheapcheapcheap cotton something. You can afford to screw that up first before you do the real McCoy.

Choose the size that you think will fit you best. Mark where on the sizing (bust, waist, hips) you think you'll need to either take it in or allow for more.
Work in half-inches, because that's approx. how wide you want a seam to be on either side of the machine stitch.
So....allow however many half-inches you think you'll need extra with the pieces that correspond to the (bust, waist, hip) pattern pieces and cut the pattern accordingly.
Do the same for where you think you'll need to take it in, but don't get too freaked by that - taking in a garment is easier than letting it out.
If possible, cut out your pattern pieces on a large flat surface, like a dining-room table, and then transfer them to a floor in a low-traffic room, like a guest bedroom. Arrange your pattern pieces on the floor into the whole garment and check again.

Gee, I hope all that made sense.
It did, but bordered on being really Math-y and math-y isn't my strong suit. I sort of glazed over for a second. :rofl:

I will try the cheap cotton idea first, good idea.
 

Lily Sawyer

B-ReadAndWed
Jun 27, 2009
6,625
15,016
South Carolina
P.S. I love the dress. It's very flattering.

When you have the bodice sewn enough to fit two parts to yourself, put it on inside out and have a trusted friend pin the side seams together so that you have a comfortable fit that mimics your natural curves best. Turn it right side out and finish accordingly. (You may have to do that in two steps. One side seam first, and then the other, with two separate pinnings.)
 

Dana Jean

Dirty Pirate Hooker, The Return
Moderator
Apr 11, 2006
53,634
236,697
The High Seas
P.S. I love the dress. It's very flattering.

When you have the bodice sewn enough to fit two parts to yourself, put it on inside out and have a trusted friend pin the side seams together so that you have a comfortable fit that mimics your natural curves best. Turn it right side out and finish accordingly. (You may have to do that in two steps. One side seam first, and then the other, with two separate pinnings.)
Thank you. I think it's such a cute dress. I'd love to use modern material with the retro feel.
 

skimom2

Just moseyin' through...
Oct 9, 2013
15,683
92,168
USA
It's a gorgeous dress! Lily Sawyer had some great advice. The easiest thing to do would be to make it to match your largest proportion and then take it in where it needs to be taken in. I have done that on occasion, when I'm in a raging hurry, but it's wasteful of material. Another thing I do when I have to 'fit' a pattern (and I do, often, because I and my girls are tall and long waisted) is to choose the pattern size that fits each part. For example, I think I remember you saying you're busty. The bodice is in three pieces, so cut the size that fits your top half. Then, if your lower half is a smaller size, cut those pieces accordingly. Lay the pieces out and make logical additions or deductions until the pieces go together. With a half inch seam, it isn't usually very hard to do so--that's a lot of fabric to work with! Making the dress out of cheap muslin (or some such) is great if you have the time and money to make it twice. I'm impatient, so I've only done that once :) Finally, once you have your pieces the way you want them and you know they work, transfer them to a sturdier paper if you think you'll use the pattern more than a couple of times. Tissue paper is crap for saving/storing. You might have to put your new, tailored pattern in a larger ziplock baggie (with the instructions, picture, etc), but it's well worth the time and effort for something you really like. :) I don't know how often you sew, but one extra thing I like is pattern weights as opposed to pins when you've laid out your pattern, particularly if the fabric is light. I've had pins pull light fabric just enough out of whack that the pieces don't line up exactly, and that's frustrating. Good luck!
 

Dana Jean

Dirty Pirate Hooker, The Return
Moderator
Apr 11, 2006
53,634
236,697
The High Seas
It's a gorgeous dress! Lily Sawyer had some great advice. The easiest thing to do would be to make it to match your largest proportion and then take it in where it needs to be taken in. I have done that on occasion, when I'm in a raging hurry, but it's wasteful of material. Another thing I do when I have to 'fit' a pattern (and I do, often, because I and my girls are tall and long waisted) is to choose the pattern size that fits each part. For example, I think I remember you saying you're busty. The bodice is in three pieces, so cut the size that fits your top half. Then, if your lower half is a smaller size, cut those pieces accordingly. Lay the pieces out and make logical additions or deductions until the pieces go together. With a half inch seam, it isn't usually very hard to do so--that's a lot of fabric to work with! Making the dress out of cheap muslin (or some such) is great if you have the time and money to make it twice. I'm impatient, so I've only done that once :) Finally, once you have your pieces the way you want them and you know they work, transfer them to a sturdier paper if you think you'll use the pattern more than a couple of times. Tissue paper is crap for saving/storing. You might have to put your new, tailored pattern in a larger ziplock baggie (with the instructions, picture, etc), but it's well worth the time and effort for something you really like. :) I don't know how often you sew, but one extra thing I like is pattern weights as opposed to pins when you've laid out your pattern, particularly if the fabric is light. I've had pins pull light fabric just enough out of whack that the pieces don't line up exactly, and that's frustrating. Good luck!
Thanks! I like that pattern weights idea, because yes, when I pin, I pucker and tug and smoosh the fabric out of kilter. I'm shaped like an upside down pyramid. From head to toe, bigger to smaller. It's a pain to find clothes that fit.
 

Dana Jean

Dirty Pirate Hooker, The Return
Moderator
Apr 11, 2006
53,634
236,697
The High Seas
And I do a pretty decent amount of sewing, but it's quilts. I've tried clothes and they always look like clothes, but never fit me properly, ever. I just like this retro dress, and a person could make it in a variety of prints and accessorize differently to make it just a good, basic go-to dress.
 
Mar 12, 2010
6,538
29,004
Texas
I love that dress and you've gotten some great positive advice from lily and skimom :) I just want to mention that if your girls are large for your body frame, you'll have to make the darts wider which would then make you have to adjust the side seams and the empire seam. A thing I don't like about darts - they're like arrows pointing to... anyways, have you ever made a dress with princess seams? Darts can be turned into princess seams. Does your dress pattern have a side zipper?

(example of a dress with princess seams - I blocked out the advertising but this pattern is on sale :))
image.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Moderator

Ms. Mod
Administrator
Jul 10, 2006
52,243
157,324
Maine
Do any of you sew clothing? When I was in Home Ec, I would make lovely things, but they would never fit my body properly.

I just bought this pattern:

b6018-b.jpg



I love the retro. My problem: My measurements are very very....very different than what they give on back for each size. I'm big in some places and smaller in others. How do I make this dress fit me? Any easy tips would be greatly appreciated. I'm working alone so don't have any extra sets of hands .
Gorgeous dress and with your height, it will be stunning. Lily Sawyer and skimom2 gave you great advice--nothing more I could add to it.
 

Dana Jean

Dirty Pirate Hooker, The Return
Moderator
Apr 11, 2006
53,634
236,697
The High Seas
I love that dress and you've gotten some great positive advice from lily and skimom :) I just want to mention that if your girls are large for your body frame, you'll have to make the darts wider which would then make you have to adjust the side seams and the empire seam. A thing I don't like about darts - they're like arrows pointing to... anyways, have you ever made a dress with princess seams? Darts can be turned into princess seams. Does your dress pattern have a side zipper?

(example of a dress with princess seams - I blocked out the advertising but this pattern is on sale :))
View attachment 16601
Yes, side zipper and princess seams. Which means absolutely nothing to me. I think I bit off more than I'm able to straight stitch.:Oo:
 

Big_Lou

Well-Known Member
Jul 17, 2016
115
636
49
My wife is a seamstress, it's what she went to college for. (Costuming/seamstress)
She costumed for several plays, including Virginia Woolf and The Colored Museum. Oh, and The Wiz, as well, though the Lion's tail kept falling off. ;;D

It's more of a hobby/passion than a career, though, these days.
 

skimom2

Just moseyin' through...
Oct 9, 2013
15,683
92,168
USA
Thanks! I like that pattern weights idea, because yes, when I pin, I pucker and tug and smoosh the fabric out of kilter. I'm shaped like an upside down pyramid. From head to toe, bigger to smaller. It's a pain to find clothes that fit.
The most challenging part of this will be the side zipper (I hate those) and the darts. Maybe setting the sleeves, if you have trouble with that. The skirt part is hella easy :)

As far as pattern weights, if you don't already have them consider large, flat washers (around 3/4" to 1.5"). I like those, and they're cheap. You just have to be sure to wash them first, just in case they have lingering machine oil.

I LOVE no bounce no play 's pattern! Those type are super easy to make, and that cut looks good on just about everyone.